Tral

In the army, life is often a journey through the unexpected, where every moment tests not just your physical endurance but also your mental fortitude. My time in the Rashtriya Rifles was a kaleidoscope of such experiences—intense, vivid, and deeply humbling. One such chapter unfolded during our deployment to provide protection for the Amarnath Yatra, a pilgrimage steeped in spirituality but fraught with challenges.

The Snake Beneath My Pillow

The evening before our movement orders, we were instructed to leave for Pahalgam at dawn. Preparations began in earnest at 2 a.m. As I rolled up my bedding, a horrifying sight greeted me: a snake, coiled tightly, resting mere inches from where my head had been. The realization sent a chill through me.

It had found refuge in a small, round depression in the ground under my pillow. My comrades rushed to grab a pole to kill it, but I stopped them. This creature had been my silent companion through the night, causing no harm. Perhaps, I thought, it had chosen the spot for its warmth and found me an unwitting protector. “Let it go,” I said. And so, like a phantom of the night, it slithered away, leaving us in awe of the fragile coexistence between man and nature.

The Convoy to Pahalgam

Before the first rays of the sun broke over the horizon, we set off in a convoy towards Pahalgam. The air was crisp, carrying with it the faint scent of pine and earth. By mid-morning, our ‘D’ Company camped in the dense Batakote Forest, while the rest of the battalion continued to Pahalgam.

We worked relentlessly to set up our camp, completing the arrangements by early afternoon. My office was housed in a Forest Rest House with large glass walls overlooking the road—a tranquil setting, yet one that made us feel exposed. As we began to relax, the serenity was shattered by a deafening blast, just 100 meters away on the road leading to Pahalgam.

A Shattering Welcome

The explosion was an IED blast that targeted a vehicle from the Engineer Regiment. The shockwave rippled through our camp, snapping us into high alert. Within moments, we were in our bunkers, scanning the surroundings with hawk-eyed precision. The incident was a grim reminder of the valley’s volatility—a brutal welcome to Batakote.

That night, we remained vigilant, the weight of the day’s events pressing heavily on us. Sleep was a luxury we could not afford, for danger lurked in every shadow. The following days saw us engaged in Road Opening Party (ROP) operations, ensuring the safe passage of the Amarnath Yatra pilgrims. The work was grueling, but our resolve remained steadfast.

The Road to Bona Devsar

With the Yatra completed, new orders directed us to Bona Devsar, a remote village in Kulgam district. The journey was a testament to the resilience of both man and machine. The roads were little more than sand paths, their bridges reduced to rubble by terrorist attacks. Yet, thanks to the ingenuity of the Engineering Regiment, temporary military bridges allowed us to press forward.

As our convoy snaked through the rugged terrain, disaster struck. An IED blast ripped through a 1-tonne truck carrying five soldiers, killing them instantly and leaving two others grievously injured. The explosion was devastating, its sound reverberating through the convoy and sending shockwaves through every soldier’s heart.

I was in my office truck, two vehicles behind the ill-fated one. The scene ahead was one of chaos and despair. Smoke billowed into the air, mingling with the acrid smell of burning metal and rubber. My driver, pale and shaken, gripped the steering wheel tightly. Fear coursed through my veins, but there was no time to dwell on it. We had to move forward.

The terrorists, surprisingly, did not follow up the blast with gunfire—a common tactic. Perhaps they underestimated our resolve, or maybe their plan had gone awry. After an hour of regrouping and tending to the wounded, we resumed our journey, carrying with us the heavy burden of loss.

Arrival at Bona Devsar

By the time we reached Bona Devsar, the sun had dipped below the horizon, casting long shadows over the wooden huts erected by the Engineering Regiment. These makeshift shelters became our first home in the area. The stillness of the night was a stark contrast to the violence we had witnessed just hours earlier.

Despite our exhaustion, we knew our challenges were far from over. Bona Devsar was an uncharted territory for our battalion, its dense forests and narrow alleys a potential haven for insurgents. The wooden huts provided little protection, their thin walls amplifying every sound from the outside world. Every rustle of leaves, every distant howl, kept us on edge.

Life Amid Uncertainty

In Bona Devsar, life settled into a precarious rhythm. Days were spent patrolling the labyrinthine paths of the village and its surroundings, always wary of hidden dangers. Nights were a blend of restless sleep and heightened alertness. The huts, though rudimentary, became a symbol of our resilience—a testament to our ability to adapt and endure.

Interactions with the villagers were cautious but necessary. Trust was a rare commodity in this fog of war, where friend and foe often wore the same face. Yet, amidst the uncertainty, there were moments of humanity—an old man offering us tea, children peeking curiously from behind doorways, their laughter a brief reprieve from the grim reality.

Reflections in the Fog

Looking back, the journey to Bona Devsar and the events that unfolded there remain etched in my memory. The snake beneath my pillow, the blast on the road, the wooden huts in the heart of insurgent territory—each moment was a lesson in survival, a testament to the unpredictability of life in the army.

The fog, both literal and metaphorical, became a constant companion. It blurred the lines between safety and danger, friend and foe, life and death. Yet, it was within this fog that we found our purpose. Every soldier carried with them an unyielding determination to protect not just the nation’s borders but its very heart.

As I pen these memories, I am reminded of the resilience of the human spirit. The journey through the fog may have been fraught with challenges, but it also revealed the strength that lies within—a strength forged in the crucible of service, sacrifice, and unwavering resolve.